Phoenix (already fallen) and Concordia (front – or back?)

Taxi services, parking fees and all kinds of souvenir shops mark the importance of a touristic site. Agrigento certainly ranges among the top 5 on cruise ship’s standard scale, but that is only one out of two reasons for early-bird-sightseeing. The second reason is the topography of the areal. Already at 10:00 AM = opening hour, the sun heats up the shadow-less terrain to 30°C (still rising) and I note a cross-correlation of temperature vs. cultural ambitions.


Anyway, I am here, it is culture and hence I clench my teeth and make my way to Roman buildings and their leftovers. It is similar to Paestum, yet more fallen apart.


The site is vast. With hardly any trees. And hot. Well, not in the “yeah, hottie!” way, but rather reaching 35°C before 11:00 AM. Most of the former temples are sized down to mere fragments, but even in that state it shows better quality than today’s average rental apartments.


Quite some stony puzzles to sort out…


… at least they have the equipment for it!

Eventually I make it to the most outstanding of all: Tempio della Concordia. Sito messaggero della cultura della pace nel mondo. Which means that it is old, important and forbidden to walk in. Fine by me, with the roof long gone it would not offer shades anyway, so why bother.


Tempio della Concordia (backside – or front?)

While the front looks exactly like the back, the side view shows the substantial size of the building. Must have been important Gods they worshipped in there…


39,42m – side view on Concordia

When I think back of Paestum and my survey a couple of years ago, I remember that I frankly admired the beautiful architecture, backed up with some accessories and decorations shown in the adherent  museum as well as a bit of description of how life once has been. Here in Agrigento, it looks all dead. Indifferent, I leave it to busses of tourists that start to stroll in and move on to more appealing places.


Scala dei Turchi


Sometimes the way ahead does not lead anywhere. Departing from Villa Del Casale, the navi leads more or less straight towards Agrigento. Like the Princess of the Pea, I favour comfort and hence big roads with Hector, but today the first trial turns out dead end. Typical Sicilian, there is no detour nor early warning, just a blocked road. From 3 possible directions, this has been the best, but flexible as I am I switch to second best. Fifteen minutes later, another road barrier shows up. I study my detailed map of the island and the options are:

  • Main road towards Agrigento: blocked, no way of trespassing
  • A more indirect tour: blocked right in front
  • Go North, then East, then all South, then West. For hours. Honestly??
  • Go back to where I have started and stay there, possibly forever

Hard to believe and yet: Today’s best Way towards my Destination

Finally, I go for the best option which is ignoring the blockade, circle Hector’s tires around the barrier, marvel at Sicilian’s biggest pothole and, later on, gently wave at the construction workers I pass by. Fortunately, most people accept the disabled road and leave the one and last existing lane to us with hardly any oncoming traffic.

Based on the recommendation of the French couple I met the other day, Hector heads on South. Leaving tiny little mosaic stones behind and approaching massive rocks: Our destination is known as the Scala dei Turchi, which is slightly misleading as it does not refer to Turks but rather to pirates, all named “turchi” in former times and demonstrating ancient preconceptions.


Favourite Vanlife with an acceptable distance to the Sea

Around noon, Hector rolls on the ground of Punta Piccola Park, a simple and likeable sosta camper at the beach of Porto Empedocle / Realmonte. 2 toilets, 3 showers and space for some dozens of camper vans with sea view. I tend to like those simple but well-located places.

The restaurant right around the corner serves delicious fish, wine, espresso and whatever else you need for your comfort: get out of the sosta’s gateway, turn left, walk max. 50m, get into the restaurant and out to the terrace, ask for fish of the day, enjoy! This being set, I take off my shoes and promenade on the beach for relaxed two kilometres.


Half-way in between Hector and the Scala dei Turchi

The more I turn West and thus away from industrial Porto Empedocle, the more beautiful is the shore. I give up looking back and continue my way along the coast line.


View to Porto Empedocle – Wrong Direction


…but then: Approaching the Scala dei Turchi


Almost there

Soon enough I spot the white cliff made of soft limestone and a blinding white marl. These days, only the tough reach it, as recent rockfalls required to close a part of the beach. The only way leads through the water stirred up by hundreds of tourist legs and with invisible stones and rocks beneath the feet. A rope indicates the safest passageway where you will always find helping hands of elderly poeple along the queue (or the other way round).


Once you are there, it is impossible not to pose for Instagram, friends and your own vanity. With the scenery as fantastic as it is, here come the inevitable “bella figura” pictures of the day:



…and in the opposite direction


Such a nice and peaceful spot – and then you end up surrounded by tourists!


See? Without me, it looks entirely boring

I spend quite some time on one of the highest “steps” of the so-called stairway. There is so much to see from here! The changing colours of the sea, all kinds of people passing by and then there is a group of Dutchmen that is keen on showing off with their youth and their muscles. After an hour or two, I turn around and leave this wonderful place behind.


Just one pity comes with todays excursion: my handstand skills do not match this place. Not yet. It would have been marvellous to pose in a free-floating handstand on top of that glistening white platform. One of the last thoughts before falling asleep that night is: “What if I exercise more focused?”. I wonder if this will get me somewhere someday…

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Villa Romana del Casale


50 Ways to Leave your Lover, much harder to Leave this Bay

It takes days to get me leave Cefalú. One day after the other, I decide to move ahead tomorrow. When tomorrow comes, it comes with yesterday’s repeating: tomorrow… Finally, with my Müsli storage being almost empty and being billed with five nights at Camping Sanfilippo, Hector turns inlands towards Piazza Armerina.


Bye Bye, Cefalú

Along the way, Sicilia changes it’s appearance: prospering plants fade out and give space to hills coloured in all shades of green and brown. The frequency of villages goes down, leaving it all up to lonely roads and endless landscape.


First stop of the day is Enna. I find a perfectly legal parking spot for Hector, switch on google maps and start walking towards the centre of this mountain village. Turning right, asking locals, moving on, turning left, checking my cell phone and finally: giving up. I learn that global internet companies fail when it comes to the very south of Europe. Not only that a lot of apps come with worn-out information (if any), the map shown on my little screen indicates that the centre of Enna was located on another hill in 14km of distance. Which, in fact, is not true. Truth is, that I cannot imagine Enna being that attractive and decide to move on towards further destinations.


Enna. Sort of.

Today is superslim-Hector day. Would he be bigger with just some millimetres more, we might have been stuck in the narrow streets of Enna downtown, where I eventually find the churches, restaurants and cafés I had been looking for. However, it does not look that much exciting or inviting, and with a sigh of relief I continue my way. In the afternoon, we arrive at an overnight camper parking that is highlighted in one of my travel books.


Sad, so Sad

The place “Agricasale” is strange. And empty. With the latter being true especially for the huge outdoor pool that looks so inviting in my book. With a cold and rainy May, the owners are not yet done with the ready-for-season works. At least, they have stable WiFi and reasonable prices, showers and toilets and electricity and, above all, a lot of nature.


Dogs run around, making friends with Hector and proving the friendship by peeing in front of my main door. Horses come by, their heads covered in clouds of black flies. In the distance, some sheep hang around and at least they have no intention bothering me – sure enough the opposite is true for the mosquitoes… The place is beyond clear definitions. A hotel? Not really. A camper park? Only as a side business. But besides what? Does the conversation with the owner lead anywhere, circling around free love?? The situation gets a bit less absurd when the RV of a French couple arrives. We sit together with wine and soft drinks and exchange tips and experiences of our Sicilian travel.


Next day is culture day! Villa Romana del Casale is the touristic hot spot in Sicily’s inland, like the Italian version of Neuschwanstein. Endless floors are covered with all kinds of artful mosaic tiles. Some are just decoration, some tell stories of heroes and glory, of hunters and cruises, beasts and beauties.


Itty-bitty Tiles, Well-Sorted


The area, consisting of several buildings (more true: their leftovers), is large. Even in 4th century it must have been a surreal experience to live here. Like inhabiting a temple of arts and craftmanship. Historically, it is a glance on ancient ideals: Fame and beauty were interpreted in a different manner than today’s selfies on Instagram.


Mental Note for my next Visit: Dress in my best Bikini, Pose for a Selfie right in front!


Big as an Elephant: Area of Villa Casale


I manage to be through with all rooms and floors before thousands of tourists arrive. I get a cup of coffee and fancy about cheap mosaic specialists offering their works in the traditional German “Gelbe Seiten”  phone book… Probably I better move on, especially with all extras and unforeseen obstacles that lay in store for me on Sicilia’s roads.

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…then you follow recommendations of people along the way and you end up in a picturesque bay with a dog. In fact, the dog belongs to the girl who takes the picture, but the rest is as it is: just wonderful.


At, even: in! my wonderful bay close to Cefalú

Hector hops on the best spot of Camping Sanfilippo with only inches between his rear tires and the sea. If you prefer a big pool, hot showers and modern sanitary facilities, choose Camping Ponente which shares the bay with Sanfilippo. If you are more like me, looking for beauty in simplicity, this might be your spot. As long as your van is as slim as Hector, that is.


I spend hours in front of my super van, doing nothing but watching the sun dive into the ocean.


Hector, being romantic with gorgeous sunsets

When I wake up the next morning, it still looks like this:


I leave it up to Hector to take care of the beach today and get on the public bus, offering comfortable connections from the campsite to Cefalú downtown. I like places like this, with touristic life embedded in the historic centre, inviting enough for a coffee between palm trees and a cathedral from 13th century.


Norman Cathedral, opened quite a while ago (back in 1240)

A rock with a view, deep blue sea, sandy beaches, historic architecture, all kinds of gelato and food – Cefalú has it all. It is a bunch of holiday facets, tempting to spend hours or days or even weeks here.


It is not only the beach with its beach towel merchants, with sunbeds and enough free space in between. It is not even the cathedral, ordered by Sicilia’s first Norman King and linked to Monreale (= built by the very last Norman King – same same, but different). Even the choice of restaurants, wine bars and ice cream is far from being solely responsible for the attraction of Cefalú.


How to spend the Afternoon here

It is the combination of it all, situated between rocks and mountains and the splendid sea.


2019_06_01_C1And, of course, it is about  people: locals presenting themselves at the beach where they meet for a little chat.

If you are keen on instagrammable spots, you will find them spread along the coast line. Here, you do not even have to fight foreign tourist groups with their selfie-sticks – among all positive facets, one of the best is the relaxed atmosphere, at least in the first days of June.

Personally, the charm of my days in Cefalú is the ideal spot for  perfect van-life. Even though the city is close enough, I love spending time at “my” little beach, starting with some yoga into the days and reduce sightseeing to a mere staring-at-the-sea.


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Gole d’Alcántara

After some Sicllia-style traffic, I wave goodbye to Martina and continue the lonely part of the journey. Only me. And Hector. And thousands of tourists. And Sicilians. Guess, I won’t be that lonely after all.


Dead End at Etna Nord – Mr. Lava-Lava = Hector

The first impression, however, is: empty spaces. Seems that there is no one around at Etna Nord… Might be because of yesterday’s eruption. On my way from Catania to a vineyard north of Etna, Hector decides more or less on his own that we should check if everything is still ok up there. And, strange enough, apart from a huge sulphur cloud, we see blue skies all around us.


Looking at former Eruptions

Next stop is the famous Gole d’Alcántara: a gorge with artful, yet natural basalt rock and ice-cold water. And a Disneyland of tourism around it. I had an idea about nature, maybe an uncomfortable tour with marching through hip-deep water, stunning views on cathedral-like stonewalls and such things. Instead, it is all about boring pathways, blocked ways to the gorge and picknick-forbidden-all over.


Hidden River

At least, some of the facets become visible by holding up the camera and taking pictures on the assumption that the angle + distance might lead to some photos worth my memory’s space.


Finally, I make it to “the beach”. If you want to see the Gole d’Alcántara, believe me: going down (by elevator even) to the beach is all you need. Do not let yourself get talked into any further than this… Silly enough, it might be no problem at all to wander through the water to further sections around it and find even better paths then the ones created by the tourist-machinery here.


The Beach / Alcántara

Perhaps it is some common rule during mixed holidays: The first day alone always is a weird one. Consequently, when I turn to a recommended vineyard, there is neither a possibility for wine tasting during the afternoon, nor do they accept tiny shiny Hector on their front-yard for an overnight stay.


In the end, I spend a relaxed evening at the well-known camping paradise, about 20km south of the Etna. And only there, sitting outside and wondering why I seem to feel grains of sand on every surface, I realize that the volcano still is active and erupting diminutive grains of lava. They float through the air, invisible except for µ-sized particles in my wine glass… Finally, the happy end of the day is that Hector took me up on Etna North, down to the Gole d’Alcántara and, via a vineyard, back to the sea – without being boiled, drowned or drunk. Now, isn’t that something?

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Etna Sud

On May 29, we decide eventually not to stay the night up on 2.000m / Parking Etna Sud, proving us being smart camper girls. Otherwise, we would have been shaken…


None of this is predictable when we start on our 12th day from Sabbiadoro towards the Etna. We would love to tell you that we catch one of the rare days when Etna’s peak is clearly visible, but we rather see business as usual: one third of the volcano is covered by clouds. The more we approach it, the less inviting looks our surrounding.


Approaching the Etna. And the Garbage. And the Clouds.

It gets better, though, as Hector’s wheels climb up and up the mountain. Grey lava and colourful flowers embellish the road and give a first impression of nature’s forces that may be calm, but always present.


Somehow Beautiful

I suddenly smile, thinking of a friend who comments left-but-slow-drivers on the highway with a reference to common video games: “Die rechte Spur ist Lava”. Right he is… (special greetings to Klaus!).


Hector meets Lava

Walking around a volcano is like landing on a foreign planet. It is almost irritating to see the regular blue sky above us, a yellow or violet firmament would fit in even better.


Extra. Terrestrial.

With a few metres of distance, it becomes obvious that Hector is parked right in the middle of a former lava flow. That is what they do here: they observe. They wait. Once the Etna erupts, they wait again (more cautious now). When the lava is cold enough, they re-build the roads and welcome tourist busses.


Hector = Vulkanaut (Auto, das Vulkane hoch fährt)

The same is true for the funicular: the former one got partly destroyed by eruptions? Never mind, we erect new pylons beside the old ones and start all over again. Danger vs. tourism, money vs. nature.


Funicular Etna South

We leave Hector for expensive parking fees at the tourist parking and choose early lunch at the local (and very touristic) restaurant. It is only there that I wonder if some parts of the building might be less stable then others – it seems that the walls are slightly shaking sometimes. At that point we still make jokes about possible earthquakes…


After Lunch, we go up on one of the older craters. While the Stromboli had been extraordinary with its regular eruptions, the Etna impresses by its sheer size. We look south and see the sea in a far distance – like merging Mars into Mediterranean.


Looking north, we see more craters and the massive clouds that swallow 1.000m of the volcano’s height.


Etna. And, in the distance, more Etna.

It is fascinating up here, a whole lot of nature jumps at our faces. Partly due to the view and the weird landscape, partly literally with all the pumice that is blown up on us. Volcanos and wind always come as a couple.


…did I mention the cold Wind??

We consider the option staying the night up here. Yet, 6°C and light rain is not the most comfortable surrounding – hence, we decide to go down to Catania for a relaxed campsite with seaside. Hector is already focused on the destination and off we go.


Like an Aerosmith Song: “Going… down?!”

Camping Jonio is just perfect for our last common night. Any parking position more than 20m away from the sea is so not our style, and here we have everything we need. Apart from being close to downtown, that is. However, we are in walking distance to a small harbour and detect wonderful fish shops along the way.


Lava with Summer Feeling: Back to the Sea

It is our last evening together before Martina catches her flight the next morning. Consequently, we find one of the most excellent restaurants of the entire trip and enjoy all kinds of fish, a bottle of Donnafugata Cattarratero, dessert, coffee and total luxury at Nitto restaurant, Porto piccolo.

When we fall asleep that night, we are not aware of the Etna and its erupting activities.


This Picture was probably taken in the very moment of the Etna’s Eruption. Well – we missed all the Action, but that is not so bad

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Another Culture Day breaks its dawn with fabulous Hector and bright sun. We start full of youthful enthusiasm which is good – otherwise the 2,2 km march to the next bus station would have annoyed us.


We could have spent the day at Sabbiadoro, doing nothing. Instead, we are off to Noto. Sometimes it is tough being intellectual…

As soon as we stride the Porta Real and enter Noto’s prinked baroque centre it gets obvious that this place is worth a visit. Especially when fresh wind is more tempting for a light jacket than for sand coating in your tiniest bikini.


Perfect conditions for a city tour at Noto

While Taormina shares a style mixture with a range of aprox. 2.000 years and with Siracusa having a more off-scaling charm, Noto is all bright and nice and beautiful. Like easy-listening pop or chocolate ice cream, Noto is the everybody’s-darling-town of Sicilia’s East coast.


Like pearls on a string, grand buildings present their baroque facades along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Following the flock of tourists, we step through Porta Reale and make our way through Baroqueland.


Santa Chiara

We start with the Chiesa di Santa Chiara, a wonderfully inviting church with dignity and a statue of Padre Pio. Driven by the atmosphere of the church, I ignite a candle before we step out into the sun for the next highlights.


Cathedral of Noto

Next stop is Noto’s Cathedral, majestic and impressive yet with a different charm compared to Santa Chiara.


Getting more into the local style of decoration, we follow our guidebook and admire elaborate balconies in some of the cross-roads. Guess showing off in front of your neighbours was a common hobby back in 1694.


Even before everybody wanted a Porsche, people found a way to show their richness

No matter where you turn here, you will always stand in front of beautiful buildings. Passing by the theatre is almost like: “yeah, see? Another one…”


Noto’s Theatre

With a bit of a distance from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, we finally find an open place with a modern building at one side. It looks like something with bureaucracy in it, while the pattern of blind windows comes with a particular beauty.


A few weeks ago, Noto was all blooming and flourishing during the annual flower festival Infiorata di Noto: Roads and stairs around the historic centre get filled with flower arrangements, all adding up to gigantic pictures in the slope streets. The forms are still visible and some of the stairs around have been painted, following this year’s device of “I Siciliani in America”. Hence, it is no wonder that the Statue of Liberty is to be found right here.


2019_05_28L1For lunch, we get served with all kinds of delicious antipasti + main course at the Trattoria Ducezio. Sometimes when I think back of the Sicilian holidays, I still dream of gamberetti all’ arancia

However, we are not here for fun but for culture! Hence, next stop is an exhibition with works from Banksy, one of the contemporary artists I admire most.


Banksy’s street art is a nice contrast to the Baroque-as-Baroque-can architecture in Noto. Still full of impressions, we hop on one of the afternoon’s busses (ignoring the toothless taxi driver that tries to talk us in his car), heading up for Avola.


Last glance on Noto, here: Palazzo Ducezio

The town between Noto and our campsite is described as a hidden champion, a quiet town with a small historic core. In fact, it is non-touristic with only local highlights. The highlights are today’s funerals that pass one after the other while we wait on busses that might or might not exist on the cryptic timetable of the bus station.

Eventually, we make it on a bus and the friendly driver offers an extra stop for us, bringing us all back to Camping Sabbiadoro.


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Siracusa II: Ancient Stones

Siracusa and its surrounding area have been inhabited since ancient times, now with 2 temporary citizens added (Martina + me), all cosy on the simple camper parking “von Platen”. It looks like leftovers from a former industrial site, now used for busses and camper vans. With lookouts on the adjacent estate, it even comes with the illusion of supervision and bodyguards. Which is not true. True is that we feel comfortable here and appreciate the warm welcome from other guests, from the gatekeeper and the drivers of downtown-shuttle busses.


Between Hector and the Greek Theatre

The Greek Theatre and further Roman relics are right around the corner of our camper parking. On our way, we pass by the lookout tower and admire the futuristic church “Madonna delle Lacrime” that seems to be an elder cousin of Bahá’i Temple in Hofheim/Langenhain.


Madonna delle Lacrime

The historic site of ancient ruins opens at 9:00 am. We arrive at the main spot, the Greek Theatre that awaits us since the 5th century BC, at 9:10 am, only to bump in two busloads full of pensioners. Although they do not appear like super-sports-seniors, they somehow managed to outperform us. With a sigh we give in to the early-bird-crowd and hand them over our cameras – at least it eases the search for a portrait-photographer.


Next time I come here, I will order more stable weather and organize an evening at the theatre festival. The scenery is inviting and, with wooden planks on the echelons, it must be comfortable enough to enjoy modern interpretations of historic dramas.


We leave the amphitheatre and make our way to the Ear of Dionysius. The spiral shape and the altitude of the natural cavern produce impressive acoustics, tempting people to clap and sing and shout and do any kind of strange noise just for the fun of it.


outside in…


…and inside out

The ancient Greeks have been successful in culture and politics and it is all obvious how they got there: strong hierarchies on short distances. The quarry for the amphitheatre is just around the corner, interspersed with natural and handmade caves. No wonder that the Romans, some hundreds of years later, took over the place and added a fight arena. More blood, less elegiacs – sometimes culture is a question of habit.


Roman Arena

Satisfied with the cultural aspects of today, we get back to Hector. We hop on board and head off to Camping Sabbiadoro which will be our home base for sunny hours, a nice beach bay and a trip to Noto – adventurous public transportation included…


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Siracusa / Ortigia

So. Everybody tells me, Siracusa is soooo beautiful! Well… the first impression is at least ambivalent.


As with most things in life, it seems to be a matter of timing. Huge parts of Ortigia, the baroque peninsula of the city, must have been fabulous around 1705, when the buildings were brand-new. Nowadays it rather looks run-down – just like us during the one rain shower that gets us, jumping athletically under the parasols of the very next restaurant.


Fading Beauty in Ortigia / Siracusa

While the afternoon enfolds, Siracusa shows more and more facets of beauty, tourism and weather. The sea turns from grey to blue and buildings get brighter, especially when approaching the historic core of Ortigia.


When we reach the Cattedrale metropolitana della Navità die Maria Santissima, we put aside any scepticism and stare fascinated at the mixture of Greek and baroque style, Catholic symbols amid Doric pillars and the dignity ascending behind scattered tourists.


The atmosphere is particular. Peaceful and strange, dark and bright mixing up, somehow pure and decorated all the same.


From the outside, the cathedral is not less interesting. Behind the baroque portal you find the ancient pillars from Greek eras with the later Christian church built in, creating a unique symbiosis of architectural styles.


Greek meets Baroque

We continue our way and follow the travel book’s guidance straight into the next church: Santa Lucia alla Badia. It contains a huge painting from Caravaggio that attracts far more people into the small church than it can swallow. Consequently, masses of people shuffle through the aisles, all aiming to get a good selfie in front of the painting, accompanied by the constant megaphone reminders that it is absolutely forbidden to take pictures inside the church.

Further down the road we reach the next highlight which is the phenomenon of a fresh water well located only inches from the salty sea. It attracted settlers already thousands of years ago and still is famous for being the source of European papyrus.


Papyrus plant growing at the Fountain of Arethusa

You do not have to drink the water directly from the well though, there are enough bars and restaurants around. A glass of aperitivo and some rays of sun are all it takes to finally convince us of Siracusa’s qualities.


We stroll along some further for the rest of the afternoon, detecting wide space and relaxed students around the Castello Maniace, a studio filled with sensual modern paintings where we have a nice chat with the artist and a local festival where they celebrate stalking men (= men walking on stalks, joking on naïve tourists).

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We conclude the evening with fantastic food at Divino Mare and come to the opinion that Siracusa may not be as charming as Taormina on the first glance, but definitely has a special flair.

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Isola Bella

Our first week has been filled with 1.837,7 km (Hector, driving), 900m altitude difference (Stromboli, outbreaking) and overall 9h on ferrys and boats. Now we decide to take it slow and stay one more day at Paradise Camping / Taormina.


Even under Cloudy Sky: Isola Bella, all bella

Martina is keen on hiking up to mountain villages and crash traditional Italian weddings, while I am just lazy. For the morning, however, we both head off towards Isola Bella – which in fact is not more than a tiny peninsula that lies there like a leftover from Taormina’s basement.


I assume the inch of sea water between Isola Bella and land is handmade, created by some inventive tourist office – and you know what? it works! Everybody is keen on wet feet and on the walk over to the island.


Weather is dithery today, but nothing we cannot cope with. The general rule of our holidays is: Rain is something that happens elsewhere. Every now and then we get told about the “brutto tempo” and Sicilian folks are all upset about it. Compared to the rainy May we had in Germany this year, we are happy about the sun-and-clouds-mixture we face here. Furthermore, I like the diffuse light that almost merges the sky with the sea.


For noon, we choose once more our favorite ristorante Porta Messina, again with fantastic food and friendly service. Taormina does it’s best to make us feel comfortable.


Meanwhile, Martina is on her own mission and finds even more beauty in architecture, landscape and people high above Taormina.


And Hector? Enjoys beach day!


Hector’s Perspective

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